The French Atlantic Coast: A Sea of Culinary Possibilities

Focus regions /

Monday 17 August 2015

France is colloquially known as “the hexagon” for its shape, and the left side of the polygon is all coastlines. The Atlantic coast of France offers a variety of culinary influences, from Brittany in the north to the Basque country in the south. An emphasis on seafood is a given, but that’s not all that this diverse region has to offer.

For an insider’s look, chef Pascal Roy of the Table Des Roy restaurant in Nantes shares some of his favorite local products.

 

Eating by the Seaside

It’s no surprise that this coastal region has so much delectable seafood to offer. Some of its stars are Brittany blue lobsters and Normandy, Brittany and Arcachon oysters. Bouchot mussels from the bay of Mont Saint-Michel are protected by AOC designation in France, and smoked salmon is another big seller in the region. While many associate this product more with the British Isles, Brittany smoked salmon is often infused for 20 hours and contains less salt than other similar products on the market.

 

And of course, in this country of luxury products, caviar has its place – French sturgeon caviar has a complicated history starting at the beginning of the 20^th century, which apparently stems from a Russian princess noticing that fishermen in the Gironde region were disposing of the treasured eggs. In 1920, caviar began being produced in Gironde, and today, even after difficulties due to overfishing, you’ll find it sold throughout Aquitaine.

 

M Roy explains that he makes sure to serve fish all day every day. “I serve fish that I get fresh every morning from my fishmonger: pollock, hake, haddock… And in the evening, it’s available on all three menus: bass, cod, and scallops when they’re in season.”

 

Surf and Turf

But seafood is far from the only star product of the Atlantic coast of France. Mr. Roy cites other favorites, notably squab and foie gras, which he sources from the Loire Atlantique and Vendée regions. Nantais duck is yet another favorite in the region.

 

Cheese is a particular indicator of terroir in France, and the Atlantic coast is no exception. Mr. Roy serves cheese “on a tasting plate with five different cheeses – always with a local accent: Pont d’Yeu, Curé Nantais, Secret du Couvent…” he says. “I also use the Curé Nantais in an espuma on one of my evening menus, with a soft egg and pan-cooked mushrooms.”

 

M Roy is wont to pair surf and turf on his menu. “I do sometimes like to combine them… but without scaring the customer! For example, I’ve already done a roasted double veal rib with langoustines, or sautéed scallops with Guéméné Andouille and cauliflower. And soon I’ll be doing a foie gras with seaweed.”

 

While Mr. Roy obviously has no qualms with playing with authenticity, there are a few traditional dishes that he holds close to his heart. “My favorite traditional dish is a Breton pork “pluma” that I’ve been doing since the restaurant opened in January 2012. Right now I’m doing it in a 100% regional way: pork “pluma” cooked on a plancha with a cardamom cauliflower cream, Romanesco cauliflower and radish, and Breton Ribot buttermilk reduction with Chouchen [a Breton alcohol].”

 

Wine and Dine

The region’s wines are part of what makes its terroir so diverse. Mr. Roy cites the variety of Muscadet white wines as some of the stars of the local terroir, as well as other Loire region wines like Coteaux d’Ancenis, Coteaux de l’Aubance and Coteaux du Layon.

 

“We mostly serve them as pairing flights, with three wines selected with regards to the dishes the customer has chosen. For example, with a cider-marinated foie gras, we’d serve a Coteau de l’Aubance or a Layon. With the fish of the day, an excellent old vintage of Muscadet (Chateau du Coing 2004). With the squab, a Coteau d’Ancenis from Benoit Landron.”

 

With a region so rich in terroir, it’s no wonder local chefs like Mr. Roy are brimming with new ideas!